SUTURA LACRIMA
- Material
- 925 Sterling Silver
- Stones
- 1 laboratory grown diamond, D-E-F colour, VVS clarity, brilliant cut
- Finish
- Chiaroscuro
Handmade in Italy
LIMEN
The threshold.
- Leather
- Full-grain calfskin
- Colour
- Black
- Origin
- Calves raised in Italy
- Made
- Cut and sewn by hand in Italy
The first thing of BROKEN HEARTS anyone holds, before the piece. Full grain means the hide keeps its whole surface: it is not sanded or corrected, so no two carry the same marks. It closes with a leather tie wrapped around it.
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Full-grain calfskin · Black · Calves raised in Italy · Cut and sewn by hand in Italy
Reliquary · LIMEN
925 Sterling Silver · 1 laboratory grown diamond, D-E-F colour, VVS clarity, brilliant cut · Chiaroscuro
SUTURA LACRIMA
AUREUM18kt goldHandmade in Italy
The stone
Lacrima · diamond white
Lacrima · diamond white
How you wear it
Single or as a pair.REQUIEM
The forge has stopped.
SUTURA was a wide band opened by a single cut, the seam left in sight and a stone set in the opening. We chose to leave it as it is: a wound is stitched once. It will not be forged again.
Anatomy of a wound
Oxidized 925 silver, hand forged into a wide ear cuff. A broad band opened by a single straight cut that crosses it, one laboratory grown diamond in brilliant cut set in the opening, the seam left in sight instead of closed. Worn without a piercing, sold single or as a pair.
Materials
Material
925 Sterling Silver
Finish
Chiaroscuro
The signature finish of the house: the light and shadow of Caravaggio, form torn out of the dark. Every surface is burnished by hand so the shadow stays in the grooves and the light catches the relief. No two pieces carry it the same way.
The stone
Stones
The maison's other stones each carry a colour. LACRIMA carries light: it is our diamond, a tear that refused to dry.
Grown in a laboratory, it is carbon in a cubic crystal, Mohs hardness 10, with the full light of a diamond. Colour D-E-F, clarity VVS.
The founder chooses them one by one, and only in the brilliant cut, so the light that enters comes back.
Each one is set by hand, one at a time: the graver raises the metal in small grains and closes them over the diamond. What holds it is metal.
Every piece has its Stone Card: the maison's certificate of origin and authenticity, digital, issued by the concierge after every order.
Grade · D-F, VVS
The colour sits in the three highest grades of the scale, those of the purest white. The inclusions are so minute that a trained eye, at ten times magnification, can barely find them.
Would you like to choose the diamonds with us? Write to us.
Made to order
Where it is born
Each piece is born in Italy, in the Oromare workshops, and finished in the Borgo degli Orefici, where metal has been struck for seven hundred years.
Why it cannot return
Born only when you order it, in the configuration you chose, single or as a pair. What is made for one person alone cannot return. By law, the right of withdrawal does not apply to goods made to measure or clearly personalised for one person alone (art. 59, para 1, letter c of Italian Legislative Decree 206/2005 and, for EU consumers, art. 16(c) of Directive 2011/83/EU). A wrong size is not a return: we resize it free, for as long as the forge stands. If, by exception, the maison accepts a piece back, it is never resold: it is melted down and the metal goes back to the crucible. And if something is wrong, write to us: a person reads every message, and the maison decides case by case. The Manifesto
Tied to a date?
Handwork can ask for a few extra days. If your piece is a gift or bound to a date, order about three weeks ahead and write to support@brokenhearts.co: it takes priority.
Anatomy of value
The hundred
One hundred new clients a month. When the hundred are reached the list closes, and opens again the month after. Whoever is already in the Register does not wait: the forge takes their piece first.
The number
The stones of this piece have their Stone Card: a digital certificate of origin and authenticity with a number of its own, issued by the concierge after the order. It states the species, the cut, the carats and the measurements.
The hands
The wax burns out of the plaster at 720 degrees and the molten metal takes the space it leaves. Then files and paper, from 220 grit to 1200, until no tool mark catches the light. Where there are stones the metal is cut open and closed back over each one. Three workshops work the same piece, one after the other.
The days
The piece is made after your order, not taken from a shelf: up to twelve working days at the bench, and the date on this page is kept.
The rest is written in the Codex.
Forged one by one
Every piece is born in Italy, in the hands that forge it.
- The saw cuts the block of wax.
- The burr hollows the ring in wax.
- The metal waits in the crucible.
- The flame heats the crucible.
- The fire melts the metal.
- The tongs go into the bath.
- The flame is lit.
- The torch heats the bath from below.
- The rolling mill thins the bar.
- The brush readies the piece for soldering.
- On the back, BROKEN HEARTS and the heart.
- The fire leaves the metal dark.
- Tongs hold the signet ring.
- The cuff is still raw.
- The cross goes under the brush too.
- The bath cleans the raw ring.
- The ring, still black from the fire.
- The raw pieces rest on the block.
- Raw, side by side.
- The flame solders the parts.
- The wheel smooths the ring.
- The piece turns against the wheel.
- The wheel takes away the fire’s marks.
- The ring meets the wheel again.
- Tape guards the fingers from the wheel.
- The bracelet catches the light again.
- The saw works the band.
- Abrasive paper spins over the band.
- The paper reaches inside the ring.
- The saw follows the form, slowly.
- White dust: the form grows finer.
- The tip finishes the smallest detail.
- The wax ring goes onto the mandrel.
- The blade brings the wax to size.
- A mark shows the right size.
- The band stops at its size.
- The point marks where to stop.
- The scoop pours out the red stones.
- The cross rests on the red stones.
- The red stone finds its place.
- Tweezers choose one stone at a time.
- Blue stones pour out beside the cross.
- The blue scatters across the wood.
- The first stones enter the crack.
- One by one, they fill the crack.
- Now the crack is full of blue.
- The blue goes into the ring too.
- Each stone in its place, waiting.
- No two reds are alike.
- Green stones, each in its own slot.
- A single stone, cut as a triangle.
- Tweezers gather the smallest stones.
- Under the lens, the ring is readied.
- The graver opens the stone’s seat.
- The green goes into the cross.
- The graver closes metal over the stone.
- Pliers press; the green stones wait.
- Each green sits firm in its setting.
- Every stone is checked, one by one.
- Clamped, the ring takes its stone.
- The microscope sees what the eye cannot.
- The shellac warms over the flame.
- The piece is held in the shellac.
- The gravers wait, each with its edge.
- Fingers set the ring into the shellac.
- Heat locks the ring onto the handle.
- The eye follows the row of stones.
- The last stroke closes the last stone.
- The wax
- The fire
- The raw cast
- The file
- The size
- The stones
- The setting
